Gilbert Kitchen Clock Disassembly and Gear Train Layout

Disassembling a Gilbert kitchen clock and documenting its gear train layout is one of the most important foundational skills in American clock repair. These clocks, produced between 1900 and 1920, were inexpensive mass‑market timepieces originally designed to last only a few years. Yet more than a century later, they remain common, repairable, and ideal for learning the fundamentals of movement teardown, wheel identification, and strike‑train logic.

This guide walks through removing the hands and dial, extracting the movement, performing a basic strike test, and then creating accurate diagrams of both the time and strike trains. These diagrams become essential references during reassembly, especially for beginners who are still learning to visualize wheel relationships inside the plates.

Understanding the Gilbert kitchen clock movement

Gilbert kitchen clocks share many design similarities with Ansonia and Sessions clocks of the same era. They use spring‑driven, time‑and‑strike movements with a count‑wheel strike system. The layout is predictable, the parts are robust, and the movements are forgiving enough to make them excellent training pieces for new repairers.

Why documentation matters

Before you take a movement apart, you must know where each wheel sits between the plates. Even though these clocks are simple compared to more complex regulators or chiming clocks, the gear trains still contain enough wheels, pinions, cams, and levers that reassembly can become confusing without proper notes. A clear diagram of the time and strike trains eliminates guesswork and prevents costly mistakes.

Removing the hands

The first step in accessing the movement is removing the hands. Gilbert clocks typically use a tapered brass pin to secure the minute hand and a friction‑fit hour hand.

Minute hand removal

At the center of the dial, you will find a small tapered brass pin passing through the minute hand and the square on the minute arbor. Pull this pin straight out, taking care not to bend it. Beneath the pin is a small brass washer; remove it and set it aside. The minute hand should now lift off easily. Note the square hole in the hand, which matches the square on the arbor for proper alignment during reassembly.

Hour hand removal

The hour hand is held on by friction alone. Slide a fingernail or thin tool under the hub and lift gently. Avoid prying against the dial surface to prevent damage. Once removed, place the hour hand with the minute hand, pin, and washer so nothing is lost.

Removing the dial and exposing the movement

With the hands removed, the dial can be taken off to reveal the movement inside the case.

Dial screw removal

Locate the two dial screws, usually positioned at opposite sides of the dial pan. Remove them and keep them together. The dial and bezel assembly can now be lifted away, exposing the movement and pendulum inside the case.

Initial movement inspection

With the dial removed, examine the movement for obvious issues such as bent levers, worn teeth, or excessive dirt. This is not the time for detailed inspection; you are simply familiarizing yourself with the layout and condition before removal.

Removing the movement from the case

The movement is typically held in place by four screws—two at the bottom and two at the top. Some screws may be recessed, requiring a long‑shaft screwdriver to reach them properly.

Choosing the correct screwdriver

Using a screwdriver that fits the slot correctly is essential. A blade that is too short or too narrow can damage the screw head. Select a screwdriver that reaches the screw comfortably and fills the slot fully.

Movement extraction

Remove the lower screws first while supporting the movement. Then remove the upper screws, which may require a long, narrow‑shaft screwdriver. Once all screws are removed, gently lift the movement out of the case, taking care not to snag the pendulum leader or interfere with the gong hammer. Set the movement aside on a clean surface and keep the screws together.

Basic strike test before teardown

Before disassembling the movement, it is helpful to perform a quick strike test. This gives you a baseline understanding of how the strike train behaves.

Testing the strike sequence

Temporarily reinstall the minute hand on the movement. Rotate it to the half hour and observe the strike. Then continue turning it through the hours, counting the number of blows. The rack should drop into progressively deeper slots and finally into the deepest slot at twelve. If the strike sequence is roughly correct, you know the strike control system is functioning, even if wear or dirt still needs attention.

Checking pivot looseness

Look closely at the pivots where they enter the plates. Excessive wobble or visible oval wear indicates that bushing work will be needed. Make mental notes of any pivots that appear loose so you can recheck them once the plates are apart.

Recording the time train layout

Before letting down the mainsprings and separating the plates, you must document the wheel positions in the time train. This can be done with photos, but a simple diagram is often more useful.

Labeling the wheels

Starting from the mainspring end, identify the great wheel and then the successive wheels in the time train. Label them as follows:

• Great Wheel – driven directly by the mainspring
• T1 – first wheel
• T2 – second wheel
• T3 – third wheel
• T4 – escape wheel

This labeling system makes it easy to track each wheel during reassembly.

Drawing the time train diagram

For each wheel, draw a simple representation showing the arbor, wheel, and pinion. For example:

• Great Wheel: arbor, wheel at top, mainspring block below
• T1: arbor, wheel at top, pinion below
• T2: arbor, pinion at top, wheel at bottom
• T3: arbor, wheel at bottom, pinion below
• T4 (escape wheel): arbor, pinion at bottom, escape wheel at top

This diagram becomes your reference during reassembly, ensuring each wheel is placed correctly.

Recording the strike train layout

The strike train is slightly more complex due to the count wheel, maintenance cam, and hammer‑lifting pins. Documenting this side is just as important as the time train.

Labeling the strike wheels

Turn the movement to view the strike side clearly. Identify the wheels and label them:

• Great Wheel – with mainspring and count wheel
• S1 – first wheel
• S2 – second wheel (often carries the maintenance cam)
• S3 – warning wheel
• S4 – fly (governor)

Drawing the strike train diagram

Sketch each wheel with its arbor, wheel, and pinion. Include the count wheel on the great wheel and the hammer‑lifting pins on S2. This diagram helps you understand how the strike train controls the hammer and count sequence.

Preparing for mainspring let‑down

Before separating the plates, you must safely release the power in the mainsprings. Use a proper let‑down tool and mainspring clamps to control the springs. Never attempt to open the plates while the springs are under tension.

Letting down the springs

Fit the let‑down tool to the winding arbor, ease the click, and allow the spring to unwind slowly under control. Repeat for the second spring. Only when both springs are fully relaxed should you proceed to plate separation.

Why documentation prevents mistakes

Recording the wheel positions before teardown is one of the most important habits in clock repair. Even experienced repairers rely on diagrams when working on unfamiliar movements. Your T1–T4 and S1–S4 diagrams ensure that every wheel returns to its correct position and orientation, eliminating confusion and preventing reassembly errors.

Related guides and resources

• Diagnosing problems on a Gilbert 8-day clock movement
• Restoration and repair on a New Haven kitchen clock and movement
• Restoring and repairing a Seth Thomas adamantine clock and movement
• Restoration and repairs on a Gustav Becker clock and movement
• Restoration of a one-weight time-only Vienna regulator clock

Frequently asked questions